A little culture for the walk home

Thought you'd never see swing dancing in Greece?  Think again!

The Thessaloniki Film Festival is on this week, and the city is so alive.  All of the center is lit up with Christmas lights, people are strolling along the sea in their winter coats, and the movie posters are everywhere.  I always love this city, but this week it's at its finest.

As I walked home from a little Christmas shopping in Agias Sofias, I encountered a large crowd gathered around the front of the church.  I found a portable sound system playing music from the 40's and several couples swing dancing on the sidewalk.  I recognized their moves from the good 'ole days when I sparsely attended my university's swing dance club: it was the "Lindy Hop" they were doing, a unique style of swing with a lot of flair.  There was something about this moment, standing there in the square among strangers taking in this dance that makes you feel transported back in time.  It's moments like these when I'm glad I don't happen to have my camera on me; being unable to capture it made it more special.

Anyway, as they finished I was handed this little piece of paper (shown above) advertising a Christmas Swing Ball for this Saturday at 8:00.  It's being presented by Lindy Hop Greece and features 2 live bands and a Lithuanian DJ (why not?).  Too bad I won't be here or I'd totally go!

I'll be out of commission for the next few weeks as I take some time at home with my loved ones.  I'll be back in early January, so meanwhile my friend Tony will be updating you on the city.  Until then!

Yo quiero...

This just in:

TACO BELL

Athens Metro Mall

That is all.  Now excuse me while I go dance through the streets...

A reasonably-priced gym membership

November was a rough month for me and without wanting to sound like I'm on Oprah, I felt pretty homesick.  I was culture shocking even months after living here, and I felt tired and lethargic.  My solution: join a gym for a month!  I figured all the running would get those endorphins going and I'd be feeling much better physically.  It was true; but the month-long gym membership wasn't cheap.  And I didn't love the gym, either.

It would have been wise to ask around before I signed up for my current gym (Fitness Fun), but I found out something awesome yesterday that I have to share with you.

If you're looking for a reasonable gym membership, I heard about a great deal at "Gymnasium" (what an original name huh?) that allows people with a flexible schedule to work out for pennies.

Gymnasium has some of the best hours Thessaloniki has to offer.  It's open on Sundays and you can start as early as 7 AM... early for Greece!  It's conveniently right off Aristotle Square on Tsimiski in the mall, on the 3rd floor.  A normal monthly membership (not including spa) costs 88 Euros.  But for a year-long "happy hour" price (you can only go on from 7 AM to 1 PM, have to be out by 3 PM and unlimited weekend hours) you only pay 169 Euros.  So if we do the math, that's just about 15 Euros a month!  Not bad.  The place has really nice equipment, fantastic locker rooms, and a spa (you have to pay extra for this but it's SLAMMIN).  There is a 30 Euro start-up fee so if you join now for a year, 200 Euros.  What a deal compared to other gyms!

For more info, check out the website at Gymnasium.

The Spa - I told you it was off the hook!  There's a steam room and sauna as well.

Great state-of-the-art equipment

Chicken wrapped in bacon? Yes please!

Today as I walked through the city I couldn't resist grabbing lunch at Snoopy's.  It's one of my favorite gyro joints in town, because they have a special chicken souvlaki for the pita that's wrapped in bacon.  If you're on Tsimiski, go past agias sofias until you get to the harley davidson shop and make a right.  It's not too far from the white tower.  You'll see snoopy on the sign like this:
 

Check out this chicken wrapped in bacon!  That's the stuff.  Cheap, delicious, and full of calories. 

Oranges in Aristotle Square

This time of the year brings out incredible color on Aristotle Square, and various other streets with beautiful orange trees!! They add so much to the Christmas atmosphere - reminding us that we live in a Mediterranean culture!! With mid 70's weather it the orange trees are something to get excited about as December approaches.

The only advice I can give you though is not to eat them.... Apparently they taste like dirty street.

A Sunday afternoon coffee

Hey guys,

Sorry for the absence this past week... it's been a crazy one!  I was working a conference and throwing a thanksgiving feast with my American friends.  (Those of you who are Americans in Greece can relate to the difficulty of making those foods in this country!)  I was out and about plenty of times, but I am just now having the chance to upload some photos.

This afternoon my girlfriend Maro and I went out.  I tried Mongo's (the Mongolian Barbecue place) for the first time and really liked it.  You don't see a lot of Asian food around here, so it's nice to have once in a blue moon.  I like the concept of throwing a bunch of stuff into a bowl for your ingredients...it's so American to choose EXACTLY what will be in your meal.  Makes me homesick for Subway!  Anyone agree that this franchise needs to come our way??

But I digress.

The point of this entry is that Maro and I stopped at a great little cafe for coffee afterwards.  It's called "To Mikro" and it's one of those places that would be good anywhere, but what makes it awesome is the location.  There are some side streets near Agias Sofias church that have a really special atmosphere.  They are central, yet quiet.  You feel so posh and European sitting on the cobblestone, sipping a cappuccino...even if you're just out of college and 4 euros is all you can spend.  "To Mikro" is located right around the corner from the Agias Sofias courtyard, across from the school.  The area is called "Iktinou".  They've got a nice set-up with outdoor heaters and their filtered coffee is one of the best, says Maro.

koulouri

It does not take long living in the city to enjoy a koulouri. It is a bread-ish piece of goodness that can be found on virtually every busy street corner. They are cheap (typically .50) and a nice morning snack.

However, if you want the best and cheapest you need to go down the Egnitia near Antigonithon. At the Antigonithon bus stop you can find them slightly warm, .40, and sold with pizzazz. But you need to buy it before 10 am or the bus exhaust will taint the taste......

My favorite place to eat in Thessaloniki

I can't stop telling everyone how fabulous Greek food is.  Picking a favorite is tough - but in the past 6 months I have fallen in love with the Delicatessen.

You can find this gem at two locations in the city: The Mediterranean Cosmos food court, and right around the corner from Everest on Tsimiski (Kouskoura Street).  There are a lot of great options at the Cosmos food court (including what my friend Tony claims to be the best burger around - Simply Burger), but I choose this Cypriot souvlaki joint every time.  In Greece, it's easy to tell where the good food is.  Just look for a place swarming with people.  That definitely describes the ντερλικατέσεν.  And even though the place is chaotic, the people working the grill are always joking around with me and keeping the mood pleasant.  Here are my recommendations for a great meal:

- A few chicken/pork souvlaki
- A Haloumi cheese souvlaki
- Tirosalata (theirs is the BEST)
- Pita bread, onions, and tomato
- Fries topped with cheese or one of their famous baked potatoes

The original Kouskoura location

This sign cracks me up... 364 cm?

When my boyfriend came to visit me, this place was his favorite by far... even though we also went to some nicer tavernas.  He still talks about it, and I try to make him jealous, but he can always get me back with Taco Bell or Chipotle.  Even though I miss some of the food places from home, I will really miss this place when I'm in the States!

Where to stay on a dime

Looking for a hotel in Thessaloniki on a budget for yourself or visiting friends?  Here's your answer!
 
I have lived in several continents over the past few years, and it never ceases to amaze me how expensive lodging can be in Europe.  I remember the good 'ole days in South America when I could find a great hostel for $5 a night.  In Greece, you are lucky if you can find a good room for 50 or less.  Although Thessaloniki has many tourists and backpackers that come through, the city never caught onto the hostel idea like most other major cities have.  Thanks to RentRooms Thessaloniki, things are changing.

For the low-maintenance traveler who has no qualms with dorm-style or shared bathrooms, the price is great: 19E per person for a dorm room (6 beds) and a selection of breakfast options is included in the morning.  If you want a private room, the price goes upto 39E for a single or 49E for a double.  Both prices include breakfast as well. Wifi is available. 

Krystal loving her hot chocolate

The Backpack Cafe

View from the Backpack Cafe

The nearby seafront is a great place to ride

The location of RentRooms and the Backpack Cafe couldn't be better.  It's nestled right in between the Rotunda (providing a great breakfast view) and Aristotle University.  If you're walking up from the Egnatia to the Rotunda, take a right at the Rotunda and follow around the side until you see the painted hostel wall.

My friend Krystal and I sat and had a coffee at the home-y cafe in front.  Krystal raved about her hot chocolate and I had a great coffee.  Aris runs the place and he is friendly and helpful, as well as the rest of the staff.  Even if you don't need a room, it's worth going to this unique spot just for a drink or breakfast.  RentRooms has a helpful website with more information here.

What lies beneath the Egnatia

For those of you who walk the center streets everyday, have you wondered what lies beneath these simple roads? If you walk to the top of Aristotle Square you can clearly see ruins that pre-date the Apostle Paul, yet this is one of the few ruins that date back to the Antiquity period. This mystery can be solved in the most recent months near the McDonald's on Agias Sophias. As the Egnatia shifts with the metro construction anyone can peer over the barriers and view ancient city life. A few months ago I snapped this photo while workers carefully un-earthed the ruins. Ironically, after the ruins were carefully preserved a concrete ceiling was placed so the road could once again take its position. So during these construction months take time to peer over the barriers while history sees the light of day once again.

The Tea Route (Ο δρόμος του τσαγιού)

When I first moved to Greece, my friend Jamie introduced me to this adorable little tea shop.  For the past six months, I have brought all of my visiting friends to this place and it has been a big hit.  


Let's face it - Thessaloniki is a coffee-loving city.  But there is something so fabulous about tea, aside from its health benefits.  It is comforting and classy.  Today I spoke with Katerina (pictured on the left helping a customer) who informed me that the shop has existed for about 9 years.  Originally, the French owner used to bring tea over from Paris and other parts of Europe, and eventually decided to go into the tea business here in Greece.  At this time, tea was considered by Greeks to be mostly a remedy for sickness and not much more.  Now, Katerina says that Greeks have changed their mentality towards tea and credits Ο δρόμος του τσαγιού for helping to open people's minds to tea as an every-day drink.  Their most popular teas are of the green variety.  A favorite blend is the Μυρωμενος Θαμνος, a sweet and spicy tea.  I ordered a chai tea today called Τσάι  μυρωδικών that smells like Christmas.  I can't wait to try it!



I recommend that my visiting friends buy a bag of tea with a decorative tin in silver or gold.  For just 4E, it makes a great gift for somebody at home.


The Tea Room has a great website here with English translation if needed.  You can even order tea online...but visiting the shop itself is something you shouldn't pass up!  It's conveniently located at Χρυσοστόμου Σμύρνης 12 right off Nikkis by the White Tower.  If you're walking East along the water, take a left at Mangio and the shop will be a few blocks up on the right. 

1. 

When you need a fun gift, fast.

It's my go-to for a fun, reasonably-priced gift for a friend.  It's Octopus, the store that can be found right below the food court of the Mediterranean Cosmos mall.  Some of my favorite items?  This bling oven mitt made a great gift when I set my roomate's on fire (oops) and I'm also loving this new travel mug.  It's so cute that it makes me want to drink something hot all day...

At Octopus you can find colorful hairbrushes, denture-shaped ice cube trays, strange salt and pepper shakers, and funky wall clocks.  Perfect for the friend who wants something practical and fun.  Or maybe just fun.

Best Gyro in the Center?

As an American in Thessaloniki, I've had my fair share of gyros out and about.  They are cheap, delicious, and filling.  What's not to love?

With all the gyro shops around town, I just wanted someone to tell me where find the best.  After polling my Greek friends, most of them have told me that the best spot is this gyro shop right below the Egnatia in Aristotle square:

The place is always busy and the guys behind the counter are quite friendly - maybe a little too friendly.  But there's something energetic and fun about the atmosphere.  I like the gyros, but I find them to be a little on the salty side.  My perfect gyro has tirosalata, chicken, and everything else.  

So are the rumors true... do you agree that this is the best gyro in the Thessaloniki center?

Tea on a Cold Night

Tonight is one of those cold nights when nothing else is an option...
...you just want something hot to drink.

Luckily, there's a cute little spot for it near Agias Sofias.  The place is LAZIA.  I've been there before, and had a fantastic pot of black tea.  They have a lot of great tea options on the menu.  This time, however, my friend recommended something new - it's called "Salepi". It is a hot drink made with salep flour that hails from Turkey.  It's a bit thicker than tea and is served with cinnamon.  My friend says that you can get it from the vendors around the city for just a Euro. 

The place is cozy and has great atmosphere.  The light of the sign gives the whole place a red glow that adds to its charm.  Definitely a nice winter spot for a group of friends.

Salepi with biscuits

How true it is, how true it is.

Learning Greek is proving his point every day...

...unfortunately, the fact that so many of our words come from Greek origins doesn't seem to help too much when there are so many to memorize for an English-speaker to be considered proficient.

Despite the difficulty of the Greek language, it's always nice to continue learning. The complexities of Greek noun cases and grammar are more than enough to keep our minds in shape.

You know you want to!

It's the machine every mall cop aspires to.

It's the transportation of the future.  okay, maybe not.  But it's still sweet.

It's a segway, and for just 5 Euros well-spent, you can ride your very own around the paralia (waterfront) of Thessaloniki.

There are usually a couple of people right in front of the white tower with these at sunset.  You get 15 minutes of hilariousity and all the innocent pedestrians get to fear for their lives... at least in my case.

Have fun and don't fall over, 

-Andrea